The Long Trip to the US

10/29/2012

Today is my second day of travel. I left David yesterday by air. I got nervous on Friday when there were demonstrations and road closures so I bought a plane ticket. It's expensive but at least I knew I would get to Panama City without incident, which I did.

It felt good to be in the city, especially since I didn't have to do the driving. Panama is going to celebrate their independence day next weekend and the whole city is getting ready. One street was almost closed because school kids were practicing that evening for the parade. Flags and decorations are starting to appear everywhere. It's the same in David. I've had to take detours a number of times because people were using the street for parade practice.

I stayed at the same hotel and the same nice desk clerk checked me in. I got to chat with him quite a bit this morning while waiting for my ride to the airport. He couldn't find an available taxi that early (5:30 AM) so he called a friend to give me a ride. While I was waiting he made me a cup of tea. I practiced my Spanish and he practiced his English, which is better ever time I see him. Hopefully it is the same for my Spanish. Again though, everywhere I go in this country people are so nice, the desk clerk, the security guard, the friend who took me to the airport, seems like everyone I meet.

At the airport though I was almost embarrassed to be American. There was a gal at the check in counter having trouble with her reservation and she was whining and complaining loudly, and giving the guy at the desk a terrible time. We all know it's frustrating when travel plans get messed up but giving the desk guy a mountain of grief doesn't help. He was doing his best to solve the problem (in perfect English too). Then, in the security line, there were a couple young guys with backpacks. One in particular who was complaining (with colorful language) about the gal at the check in counter, waiting in line, the security requirements, pretty much everything that was happening. He said the few words he knew in Spanish sarcastically with terrible pronunciation, and seemed to expect everyone working there to understand English. Again, how embarrassing.

The flight was uneventful except I was disappointed that I did not get a window seat, and the people by the windows kept their shades down. I so love to look out when flying, but maybe I'll have better luck on the return trip. Customs at MIA is a process. I think it took an hour to do the 5 mile walk, the lines, collect luggage, the next lines, recheck luggage, and another hike to my gate. I was surprised at all the questions at both checkpoints – What were you doing there? How long were you there? Where did you stay? Where did you go? Who were you with? Goodness. I realized as I was heading toward my gate, I was a floor below where we'd done the initial walk in the other direction. This has to be hard on people who don't like to walk a lot.

But, I made it through the whole process with enough time for lunch before boarding the short flight to Tampa, and the much awaited reunion with my partner! I expect the next few days are going to be pretty crazy with getting out of the house and the final stages of moving everything, but I'll get back to writing more sooner or later.

Catching up again - machetes, hurricaines, travel, and skype

Sunday 10/28/2012

Yes, you can cut the lawn with a machete

This seems to go on a lot around here, lawn care by machete. Lawn care by machete and weed wacker is also common. I met a guy working in our neighborhood the other day. He has a bicycle with a trailer, and in the trailer are a couple weed wackers and machetes. Some homeowners with more upscale homes seem to have lawn mowers but among the average locals, no.

I have boots and a machete, so why not give it a try? It is surprisingly effective! I have more weeds than grass in my back yard and they are starting to get out of hand. A few swipes of the machete and the weeds are considerably shorter! I really don't want to buy a lawn mower after all the years without one, so I think I have a solution. Until I get the place replanted in mani (aka perennial peanut, same thing we had in FL), it's machete time.

There are no hurricanes in Panama.

This is true. We are out of any hurricane paths. But, this does not mean we don't feel the effects. When Sandy was northeast of us, it rained for two days straight, often raining very hard. Rivers overflowed and there was flooding in some parts of the country. The rain is warm and not unpleasant but I was getting tired of driving in it to get things done.

Don't get me wrong! I am very thankful, especially now as I see the east coast preparing for what might be a huge situation. It would be nice if no one ever had to deal with a hurricane. I'm not going to miss all that for sure, but I never thought about us being close enough to get a good soaking if one happens to be nearby. It's pretty hard to complain about any of it though, when I think about how many people are watching Sandy bear down on them.

Back to the US

Other than that, it's been quiet the last couple days. My traveling companion left for a visit to Boquete, so I have been working hard on the house. I got oil paint for the doors and storage areas on the back bedroom and wanted to get that done so it would be dry and less smelly when we all come in. I tried to clean and organize the house in general a little. It's definitely a work in progress but hopefully it will be tolerable. The new paint on the doors sure looks good!

I continue to be impressed with the kindness of the Panamanian people around me. I went to the neighbors to let them know I was going to be away for a few days. They said they would watch the house. And, they called a taxi driver friend to take me to the airport, gave me the phone numbers of their favorite taxi drivers, and wrote out directions to the house if I need to call and direct the taxi driver, something I'm not sure about doing over the phone in my limited Spanish. What nice people.

Skype

Skype is a wonderful thing. I “had dinner” with one of my daughters yesterday. She was on the computer screen in front of me, but we were almost as together as if we were in the same place. She gave me a tour of her new house. I showed her the papaya I was eating. I could have given her a tour of my house too but I'm still stuck to a cable until the router gets down here.

I bought a plan on skype where I have a USA phone number and I can call anywhere in the US as much as I want. I can't remember how much it was, but a year was about half what I paid for my cell phone in the US for a month. OK, so my old cell phone was a smart phone with internet and all that, but still, in Panama, my internet/TV, my cell phone, and my skype plan all together are a lot less than what I paid for just the phone. The internet and TV, if I remember, are about $35/month. One of these days I'll have to start an accounting of all our expenses, just to see how big the different is from what we used to pay to live.

Friday 10/26/2012 David, Chiriqui Province, Panamá

The internet came yesterday, and I haven't written anything since! I have been busy uploading everything I wrote before internet, and sorting through pics, uploading videos, etc. So, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

Lost in the city

Things continue to feel better every day, but finding things continues to be the biggest challenge. Thursday morning Lorraine had a dentist appointment. We figured we had better find the place ahead of time, so we called for directions. Go to KFC on the highway (yes there is a KFC here, and a number of other familiar fast food places). So, go to KFC, go 3 blocks, past the baseball field, and it's a white building with two floors, no plants. We went 3 blocks up the highway, and more... nothing. We went 3 blocks down the highway... nothing. We went 3 blocks north of the highway and then some, still nothing. We went back up the highway. I called again for directions and couldn't get any more than I did the first time. I swear she said 3 blocks, white building, no plants, 2 floors, baseball field. What baseball field??? Finally I gave up in frustration.

Plan B – get a taxi, ask him to take us there. We find one, hop in, he radios his home base for directions and off we go to KFC, turn SOUTH of the highway (the only direction we didn't go) and sure enough. There's a large ball field, and on the other side of the street, a white sign with the dentist's name. White sign... white building.... whats the word for sign?? Akkkk. So, since we were having such luck with this taxi guy I leave Lorraine at the dentist and ask the driver if he knows where to buy a gas can. He drives a few blocks more, and we have a gas can in the trunk and he's taking me back to my car. Now that I can easily find the dentist I can go back in my own car and pick up Lorraine.

So, days of asking and driving around to find gas cans and dentists... DONE in minutes with the help of a cab driver. We are now cooking with GAS. Heh 

Selling the house, and the joys of doing business in another country

The other big thing is the house in Florida is selling and heading towards closing very quickly – next week! I thought I had it all set up when I left. Sure, we FedEx you any papers, you sign them, FedEx them back. No problem. We do it all the time. Uh huh. This is Panama. It is a problem. 

We set off to find the David FedEx office. I know you can imagine how that went. What finally solved it was Joel at home doing research on the internet, giving me the best directions he could, us finding Romeros, the grocery store landmark we needed, and walking all around the store. Sure enough, on a back street behind the store, FedEx!! 

So, keeping in mind this is Panama, and this is happening on Thursday, if Joel sent documents immediately they would maybe get to Panama City on Saturday. They would sit until the office opened on Monday, and would get put on a truck to arrive in David on Tuesday. If I sent them back the same day, they would arrive back in Panama City on Wednesday, and maybe get to Florida on Friday. Maybe. So at best, 8 days round trip for documents involving offers and counter offers that are supposed to be signed and returned in a day. Don't forget also that there are major Panamanian holidays coming up in a week and an extra long weekend. All offices will be closed. 

Plan B – get our lawyer to give Joel POA for me so he can sign for me. The lawyer needs a day to get the paperwork in order. I sign things and they need to go to the government office in David to be notarized. Then they need to go to the American consulate in Panama City to be apostilled, something like notarized but for international business. Who knows how long that would take? 

So, the final plan – buy a printer/scanner. Email me documents, I print them, sign them, scan them and email them back. This will do for negotiations but for closing, it must be actual signatures, no scanning and emailing. It's becoming clear that the only way to work this out is for me to buy plane tickets and return to Florida for closing. Who would have thought you can get a person to the US faster than you can get papers there! But, if I do this, I can also help Joel and ma with their trip down here which is a good thing. And, I will be back with Joel in a matter of days. 

So with a bit of looking, a couple conferences on skype, I have tickets and a plan. I will take the bus to Panama City on Sunday, fly out on Monday morning and be in Florida in the afternoon. We will all be together on the same flight returning to Panama City on Thursday, stay overnight there and head to David on Friday. 

An aside, a bit of advice.... get POA for your spouse, partner, parents, anyone for whom you might have to sign. We have thought about doing this just because its good to have, but we never got around to it. On my return trip, we will be getting around to it! 

The best laid plans.... 

Friday we drive off to see our friends, the ones who put me up when I first arrived. On the way to their house the road was blocked. Someone said something about indians, Colon, and protests. There was a protest near where I live last week by people from Colon. The government has made a law that says they can sell land in Colon, and the people don't like it. It seems the only way people think they can be heard is to cause major disruptions and problems. 

Since we couldn't get to our friends, and couldn't find a way around the blocked highway, we headed in to town to do a couple other errands. Every shop we went to had people watching TV news about terrible protest all over, especially in Colon and Panama City. People were telling us the roads were blocked and the only way to Panama City was by air. The last time we were here there were protests and the highway was shut down for days. I was getting really anxious about my upcoming trip so I came home and bought plane tickets. That's a lot more money but it's sure better than me not making it to closing.

By Friday night it seems the government has backed down on the new law so hopefully peace will return, but who knows for sure. I feel better having that airline ticket.

The people here 

We went to town to do some errands, one of which was to get Lorraine some boots like the people use to work outdoors. They would be good for walking and exploring the area. I started by asking a guy shining shoes on the sidewalk, since he was shining boots and I could find out the word for boots. When he figured out what we wanted, there were a couple other guys in the conversation directing us to a store nearby. These were lady's dress boots, not work boots so when we returned we explained that these weren't what we needed. A discussion followed and one of the guys said he knew just the place for us. He came with us, or rather went there as we did our best to keep up. He explained to the shop people what we needed, and stayed with us until she found boots that fit. By now I was thinking boots would be a good idea for me too. Something has been biting my toes and feet, probably something in the grass, so I got a pair for me too. He noticed the bites and a discussion followed about that, and insecticide was recommended to be mixed with water and sprayed in the yard. (I declined but good to know if the boots don't solve the problem)

During the boot fitting, a discussion evolved about socks. I know you need them under boots. What is the word for socks? Calcetines? No? Medias?! Never heard that one. So, next, he takes us to the store he says sells the cheapest socks. I get a package of 12 pair - $5. I am expecting pretty crappy socks but they are surprisingly good! They are light weight but soft, and with the socks on the boots feel comfortable and functional.

By this time he has been taking care of us for at least ½ hour, probably more. Once we have our boots and socks, he bids us goodby, good day, and walks off. I figured he might be hoping for a buck or two from the gringo ladies but apparently not. He was just being a nice guy. He said he was a truck driver but with the road blocked he wasn't working, so he was just hanging out downtown and was happy to help. This seems to be fairly normal behavior here. People take the time to help and are happy to do it.

Well it is getting late so I should post this and get to bed. Tomorrow we get out the oil based paint for the closet and drawers in the 2nd bedroom, put together the desk we bought for in there, and get ready for my trip. I don't think we have any errands or things to do in town so hopefully we can make some forward progress on the house. It's nice to have a traveling companion and house guest who likes to help fix up houses!

Just for fun

Look what we found at the grocery store! People in my generation remember this. We drank Boones Farm apple wine a lot!

Look what we found at the bus terminal. There are vendors there who sell snacks, I suppose for people who want something to eat on the long bus ride. There seems to be a little fruit, lots of candy, some bread, cookies, and unidentifiable things like this wrapped in banana leaves. It tasted like firm pudding, not too sweet. I liked it a lot. Lorraine didn't like it at all. 

Of course, this blog wouldn't be complete without a bug, and we spotted this very interesting fellow on the front window. 

Wednesday 10/24/2012 from David, Panamá

Furniture decisions on a rainy day

I woke up this morning to pouring rain! Usually it rains in the evening but mornings are clear. The rain made it easier to sleep though, so I slept until 7 rather than my usual 5:30 or 6. I know, who would have thought, me getting up at that hour. But, it seems everyone and everything gets up before dawn in this city and when you wake up that early, you get tired early, and somehow I've just gotten into that routine. 

One more day until internet! Thankfully the internet in the park was working very well yesterday and I talked not only with Joel, but with both of my daughters as well which was great! I was also waiting for my traveling companion so I had plenty of time to talk, check emails, scroll through Facebook a bit, and feel almost back in touch for a little while. I didn't check the news though. Apparently there was another presidential debate. Right now I have no idea what is going on in the US or the rest of the world except for a few Facebook comments, and I'm trying to decide if it even matters. I don't think so. There is nothing I can do about any of it anyway.

I still can hardly wrap my head around what Joel told me. The movers are coming on FRIDAY! This Friday. The day after tomorrow. Then, he thinks it will only be a matter of days before he leaves. He and Ma could be here in as soon as early next week. I don't know if I will believe it until I see them. When I left, I thought it would be weeks before we were together so this is amazing news.

Lorraine, my traveling companion, is at the house now having returned from her many adventures in Costa Rica. It's nice to have company here. The house isn't so quiet and empty, and we always seems to have fun and lots to talk about. And, we have come up with good ideas.

I have been furniture shopping. I have found some possibilities but I just can't seem to whip out the plastic and commit to anything. Furniture costs SO much money and I've found things that would do, but nothing I am totally in love with. I don't think I've ever paid full price retail for furniture before and it's really hard to do it now. But, could we build furniture?! How hard can it be to make a table? A couch? A chair? There must be information on the internet. Joel is bringing tools. We love to build things. I'll bet we could do it, and for a fraction of the money. This is exciting! We could design whatever we want. So what if it isn't perfect? If its functional and we have fun doing it, why not! I imagine there are new and interesting woods available here. I know they grow teak, and I love bamboo.

So, new tactics. Find cheap plastic tables and chairs that will do while we make furniture. (Later they can be outdoor furniture.) Find sources for wood and materials. This is exciting :) If the family doesn't agree we can always whip out the plastic and have something here the next day, but I have a feeling an interesting project will win out over spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars to finish outfitting the house.

There were fireflies here last night. I haven't seen fireflies in ages. How cool to see the little glowing lights blinking in the yard. We also heard the birds with the amazing songs again. They sang in the woods across the street for a short time as the sun was setting. I like our home more every day.

Today we will find Lorraine a dentist. Today I really must get gas for the house, and a coffee pot. I haven't been drinking coffee but Lorraine likes it, and Joel too. 

This morning I saw a guy with a fishing pole head for the woods behind the house across the street. Apparently there is access to the river that way. When the weather clears up we'll have to go check it out. 

Tuesday 10/23/12, David, Panama

A good day yesterday!

I must have found a good corner of the park yesterday morning, because the internet actually worked!! I was parked along the street on the west side, around the corner from the church. I'll have to aim for this location again and see if my luck holds. How nice to talk with Joel! Funny, we finally get to talk and neither of us can remember half of what we wanted to say but who cares. It was just nice to talk. I chatted a little with my teacher at Habla Ya, checked Facebook for news of my kids, and answered emails that had been sitting around for days. How nice after two days of internet barely working, or not working at all. I must have been there a while because last night I noticed that my left arm is sunburned.

I also found the car insurance office without a bit of trouble and the gal there took care of things in short order. So, for $91.19 I am insured until August 2013. And, I had minimal trouble with communication. 

After stopping by the park for the internet, I went to the farmers market where a very nice young man fixed me up with everything I needed. Is it possible to eat an entire pineapple and a bowl of papaya for lunch? Umm... yes. I came home with a very large papaya, two pineapples, two onions, two green peppers, two chayotes (summer squash type things, very yummy), four bananas, three plantains, a small cabbage, and a yucca (new experiment) - $7.25. 

We also had a very nice conversation about what I wanted to buy, how to cook yucca, and which language is more difficult, English or Spanish. Why is it sometimes I fall flat on my face and can't figure out what anyone is saying, and other times it goes smoothly? I love it when it's smooth and doesn't get in the way of interacting with someone. 

Oops, can't forget the yucca (but after eating it, I decided we definitely can forget the yucca in the future. It's somewhat like library paste) 

But, the papaya was amazingly wonderful! I didn't think I even liked papayas but I'm happy to eat them every day here. 

I didn't hunt for the gas place, deciding that isn't a priority. I am fine with cold showers and a hot plate indefinitely. I ended up getting turned around somehow and accidentally explored new areas of David, finally surprising myself by coming to the highway very close to home. If I had internet I could try and find out what was going on there! People with banners that said “Cologne” were blocking both ways of the highway, and police were directing traffic around them. Thankfully the way around was the road to my house so I just got out of there and came home, more than ready to start working on my fruit lunch! 

The rest of the day I kept busy in the house. The walls of the back bedroom are painted, and now it needs the storage area painted and the floors scrubbed. I did laundry, no problems with the new washing machine. I took a video of the ants before I sprinkle them with anti-ant powder. I studied Spanish and read a little, thankful I had downloaded all my kindle books.

There is a video I'm going to upload when I get a moment. It's not a video to see but rather to hear. I don't know what was in the woods across the street last night but what interesting sounds! I heard it briefly again this morning in the woods behind my house but I couldn't see anything.

Update - video is uploaded -  sounds in the night

By the way, what is happening with my compost? I put things from the kitchen out to compost, and when I go back everything is gone! The pineapple top I planted is gone too. Who am I feeding? The yard is fenced so I don't think it's dogs. I'm going to start putting it closer to the house where I can keep an eye out. Growing vegetables in this yard may not work out. 

Today we get serious about furniture shopping. I have a few stores I plan to visit, and hopefully today I can decide on some living room furniture and a dining room table. It may be cheaper to live here, but it's not cheaper to get set up. (link) But, in general I'm feeling very good. Thankfully we do have the resources to get what we need, and I'm feeling more confident every day. 

Monday 10/22/2012, David Panama

12 days in Panama and we're still making it!

It was a frustrating day with the internet yesterday. Unfortunately internet Para Todos doesn't always work that well. I tried the park first, and the hospital parking lot later. I was able to send and receive emails if I was very patient while the connection cut in and out, but skype was impossible. How addicted we are to our technology! Just making decisions for everyone without input is difficult, not to mention feeling disconnected and isolated. Maybe tomorrow will be better. Three days until internet at home. 

I saw Ryan and Lidia yesterday which was great! They have to go to Panama City to do some business this week but when they return, he is going back to the US. She will be home alone without a car, and would welcome some company. I would welcome it too, and she also offered to help me get more familiar with the city.

I am trying to remember past moves to cities where we knew nothing and no one. It's always hard until you learn your way around. Why should it be any different here? I would like internet and better language skills of course, but it's still a process that anyone goes through when they move. I will try to keep this in mind and not be so impatient with myself. Today my goals are to take care of the car insurance, get gas for the stove, and buy produce.

 Another goal is to deal with the ants. I have an interesting trail of leaf cutter ants crossing my driveway and sidewalk. (video pending) Everyone is telling me that they are very bad because before long, they will destroy my shrubs. They seem to be eating the ixora hedge, and pieces of leaves and red flowers are moving across the cement and through the grass in a continuous stream. I'm surprised that the hedge doesn't seem any the worse for it yet because they have been working very hard for a couple days now.

I also have bees. Is this the house for me or what?! These are tiny black bees though, and their hive is so small I can't imagine it has enough honey to interest people. They seem peaceful and keep to themselves so I plan to leave them alone. They are up and out of the way so unless we decide to paint the outside of the house, they shouldn't be a problem. 

Sunday 10/21/2012 from David, Panama

Friends!!

It's wonderful how much a phone call can brighten your day! My first call ever on my cell phone was from Ryan, AKA Halfthrottle, the guy who makes YouTube videos  of his motorcycle adventures in Panama. He has been in the US working so I was very surprised to hear from him and find out that he is here in town to see his wife. We are going to get together this afternoon. It will be great to see friends, and they can help me with some of my questions too. 

I went to the park again yesterday afternoon for the internet. The connection wasn't good and Joel and I could barely talk, so we ended up typing a lot but at least we could communicate a little. The park was pretty nuts, as usual. It's crowded with people and there's always noisy traffic around the perimeter. There was a musical performance going on too, so I went to the opposite side where it was a bit quieter. Green parrots were making a racket above me though. Four more days until internet at the house, not that I'm counting. I had a dream that they showed up on Monday.

I am not a solitary sort of person. I like some time to myself, of course, but not all day every day. I notice how much better I feel just going to Do-It center and saying hello to the saleslady who helped me, even if I don't understand everything she says. I am looking forward to Lorraine, my traveling companion who will stay with me a few days when she returns (maybe tomorrow). And, I'm excited to see Ryan and Lidia this afternoon. Going to the park and being around people doesn't quite do it for me but people I can talk to, friends, that feels really good. I'm staying away from coffee too, and I feel much better than I did that first day. It had to be the caffeine.

 

Saturday 10/20/2012 from David, Panama

Getting by in the new neighborhood without internet

Ten days ago was the day I left Florida. Today is the second morning that I woke up in my own house in Panama. It still doesn't seem quite real. In a way it feels like little has changed. I'm in a residential neighborhood. The neighbors do very typical things, drive in and out, holler across the street to friends, work on things in the yard, send the kids out to play. But, if you listen, you realize it's all in Spanish, and you can't identify any of the bird songs except the roosters.

I don't have internet at the house yet. I see how much I am attached to the internet. It connects me with the people who are important to me. I connects me with so many things I take for granted. I can't find my dictionary. I probably didn't bring it because I can use on line translation. Find a business? Google, of course. My address book? On line. My family and friends? Facebook, email, skype. Last night I went to the park where they have free Wi-Fi provided by the government. I was happy to check email and call home. I was used to talking with Joel 2-3 times a day and this silence is the most difficult for me, especially now. I am in our house where we are supposed to be living together, but we are not together. I know this is the most useful thing to be doing at this time, but I will be glad when the solitary part is behind me.

But, little by little, I get by. I am very proud of myself because I called the cable/internet company and managed a successful conversation. Now I know they are coming on Thursday, and they have my correct phone number. Meanwhile, I will practice getting back and forth to the park.

I still feel tired. I suppose I should not be surprised under the circumstances! I must go to the park for the internet, but otherwise I don't feel like doing much today. I'll write, make some food, and paint some more. I definitely need to buckle down with the Spanish books. 

Friday 10/19/2012 from David, Panama

Caffeine? Freaking out in Panama??

Pick up one thing and figure out what to do with it. Relax. Sit down. Write some more. Pick up one more thing and figure out what to do with it. Relax. Read a little. Everything is all right. Settle down. This is how my day is starting. I am feeling very anxious. Was it the 2 cups of coffee? I was fine before breakfast. Is it being out of touch with my husband and all the people who are important to me? Is it just being in a state of transition? Maybe it is all catching up with me? I think it is mostly the coffee. I know I don't do well with caffeine. This is Panamanian coffee boiled in a pan since I don't have a coffee maker yet. Maybe it's industrial strength caffeine. Too much caffeine makes me really nuts. I am definitely feeling nuts.

I'm in a state of disorganization, not able to find my things, not able to find places in town, not sure how to do some basic things, and having to do everything in another language. One of my tires was low yesterday. Where do you get tires fixed? What is the word for tire? Can I make myself understood? Can I understand the answers? Can I find my dictionary?? 

Pick up one thing and figure out what to do with it. Get organized. Take control of my space. I am no longer living out of a suitcase. This is my home now. Use the empty boxes to organize things. Look up the word for tire. Ask the friendly neighbors. Do not drink any more coffee. I've been getting things done for a week here. I can continue to get things done. It doesn't all have to be today. Poco a poco. (little by little). No more coffee.

I started painting the house. It feels good to be doing something familiar, something to make the house look good. Pull the nails. Fill the holes. Trim the edges. Roll the walls. Things are getting more organized. Boxes are in use. Music is playing on the computer. The coffee is starting to wear off. I am getting my exercise. My step ladder is a borrowed plastic chair. Step up. Step down.

There are different sounds here. Panamanian houses have tin roofs. When it heats up it “pops” and sometimes it sounds like there are coconuts falling on the roof. Usually though it is more like acorns. I hear lots of bird songs, none of which are familiar to me. There are occasional roosters in the distance. And, there are dogs! There is a pack of half a dozen dogs that seem to hang out on this street, and they started barking at sunup. One is in heat so I hope that is the cause of the excitement, and they quiet down when she settles down. In the afternoon one of the neighbors was hollering at them and throwing rocks. I haven't seen the dogs since.

In the afternoon there was no water. I asked the neighbor who didn't seem worried, and explained that something was going on and it would be back on later. I think someone is fixing or building something in the area but I couldn't understand what he said very well. The internet people didn't come today so I went out to the store at the end of the day and sure enough, when I returned the water was back on. I still haven't bought gas tanks so it was a cold shower, but it felt good. I made it through another day and I've settled down. There will be no more coffee. 

Thursday 10/18/12 from David, Panamá

Conquering downtown!

More things accomplished today! I conquered downtown. Well, maybe not exactly but I managed to find downtown, park the car, accomplish all the errands, and find my way home. For me, that was an achievement! The area is crowded with pedestrians, cars, trucks, and activity, and traffic signs are merely suggestions. Ha! It is surprising how much your sense of direction improves when you know if you forget where you are, it is going to be a problem. Now that I had a successful morning, my confidence has improved considerably. I even made it to the farmers market for some produce. I must have gotten a little off leaving downtown since I ended up more west than I planned, but I found the highway and after that it was easy. 

I got to the house about 11:45 to wait for the delivery of my stuff sometime after 12. At 12:15, here comes the truck! Not only am I glad to have my stuff, this frees up a lot of time this afternoon to do other things, like get gas for the stove, and a Pricesmart membership. The two guys were very nice, brought in everything and set it up so it is ready for use. It felt good to have a fridge, stove, and beds! Now the house looks like a place where I can start living.

PriceSmart and gringos

The next thing was PriceSmart, and I now have my official membership card in hand. I looked around the whole store but only did a little shopping. I am starting to get overwhelmed with new stores and new everything and didn't feel like making decisions. It seemed like there were more gringos and English speaking people than Panamanians in this store. My friends said this is gringo central and people come from all over western Panama to shop there, sometimes even making a weekend trip out of it. It's funny. I wasn't enjoying the old familiar American looking people and English as much as I thought I would. 

Heading home, more shopping

After PriceSmart I went back to my friends' house and collected my things. It felt strange to be moving out of this place which had been my home for my first week in Panama, but it felt good to be moving in to my own house. I also felt uneasy leaving my internet connection, which at the moment is my only means of communicating with everyone. The borrowed cell phone was about out of power so I left it behind too, and headed out on my own.

It turns out I didn't get home for a while. I needed to stop at the shopping area down the street for food and a few things at the DoIt Center, so why not look around a bit. By the time I was done I'd found a deal on two small lamps at a lighting store (who wants to live with only overhead lights?) and, a cell phone! Hopefully this one will work properly.

Buying the phone was another small world encounter. The guy had played professional baseball, lived in Ft Meyers for a while, and had come to Sarasota for training games!

I also got some basic tools at DoIt and a bit of food at El Rey. By the time I got to the grocery store I felt so exhausted I could barely move! It was dark but thankfully not raining hard any more, and I managed to find the house in the dark without any problems. It felt good to stop moving for a little while, though it also felt very odd to be alone in my house in a foreign country. I'm living in Panama? Really? After all the months and years of talk and preparation, I am living in Panama, in my house? People do this? Just go live in a different country? Wow, hard to believe, but it's me really doing it. Here. Now. I have the car title and rental contract to prove it. 

October 17th, Wednesday, David, Panamá

one week after leaving Florida. A lot has happened in a week

Finally, the car! Today I got my car so now I am free to move about much more easily. The seller and his wife went downtown with me to do the change over. Everything went smoothly and it didn’t take long, I’m sure in large part because they had all the papers ready. The process seemed straightforward and when it was finished and I had my papers in hand. There was no waiting for a title to arrive in the mail. Insurance will have to be transferred later when the person I need to see is in the office.
The next thing on the agenda was cable and internet for the house. That also went smoothly, except for getting a parking ticket. I had forgotten to bring my tickets with me. They have a system here... the Parking System  Anyway, back to the cable people - the only problem was trying to explain how to find the house when I barely know that myself. I will print off copies of the map we made yesterday and carry them with me. Panama doesn't have addresses like in the US, which is the topic of another post addresses in Panama

Back to the house!

Now that I had mobility, I was eager to try and find my house. I went right to it without any wrong turns! I barely know my way around so it would be easy to get lost. But, the house is between a river and a major road, and my access road dead ends not too far past my neighborhood so I couldn’t get too far off, thank goodness, since don't have a good sense of direction.
The house definitely needs some cleanup and paint. But, with a little TLC it is going to be a very good house for us. I met a neighbor across the street, a very nice man. He says he loves the neighborhood because it is quiet, safe, and the people are very nice. I figured out what keys go with the various locks, and set up the temporary table my friends have loaned me. It felt good to be taking the first steps to make the house a home.

Keeping the Do-It Center in business!I was thinking of trying to find my way back to the cable place to give them a map but it was starting to look like rain, and I was going to be driving right by the Do-It Center (like a Home Depot or Lowes) so I figured I'd stop in for a quick look around. I need paint and I might find other things I need as well.
Well!! It turned out that they have a LOT of things that I needed! It was a MAJOR shopping trip - stove, fridge, washing machine, microwave, beds, sheets, towels, cookware, pillows, paint, ended up with two shopping carts full. What a nice store! I wasn’t quite comfortable shopping in the store with the really cheap stuff, but PriceSmart seemed too expensive. This was a great mid range, quality brands, and they had sales on the big ticket items on my list so I am very happy with what I bought. I’m checking out, looking at the pouring rain, and thinking about loading all that stuff in the car when they ask if I want it all delivered along with the large items. Delivered? the pillows and towels and vegetable peeler? Of course, yes, we would be happy to deliver all of it. Well my goodness, how nice! Si, por favor, gracias.

When I was about finished checking out, a man came in line behind me. I started to explain that I had too many things and it might be faster to go to another checkout and he answered me in English. I noticed Florida on his hat so I had to ask. It turns out he is from about 3 miles south of where I lived in Sarasota. Wow, small world!

Tomorrow, my plans are to tackle the city. All the streets look more or less the same to me, and there are few street signs so it can be a challenge to find your way around. Since the weather tends to be dry in the mornings, that seems like a good time to try to find the cable place and if I’m really good, maybe I can find the place to pay parking tickets. Then, I will go to the house to wait for the arrival of all my stuff. I think I will spend my first night there tomorrow night. I’m not far from a produce stand, El Rey (grocery store), Do-It Center, and a bunch of other shopping so I can get anything I need. I’ll see how I feel at the time but I’m excited to be in my own place so it is very likely.
 

Addresses in David, Panama, or lack of addresses

  I don't know if this applies to everywhere in Panama, but have a feeling it does. The situation seemed very similar in Panama City also. There are no addresses and very few street signs. My house has no address so to explain how to get here, I have to explain how to find the general neighborhood. Then I have to explain how to get to the specific house. It is similar with businesses also. You will see their address listed as a certain street between the two closest cross streets.

How does the mail get anywhere? It doesn't. There is no mail delivery. You either get a box at the post office or use general delivery. If you don't want to go to the post office you hire someone else to do it for you. Bills are taken around town by a currier on a bike (so I am told) and left stuck in your front gate (which I found at my house). My first day here I found a couple ads and a very soggy electric bill stuck in the gate! 

This has been by far my biggest challenge, finding things in this town

This is the actual official address of FedEx. We had a good time finding this one too and if it wasn't for Joel researching on the internet and giving me info by phone, I'd probably still be looking for it! 

Building Manuligo
H North Street
Ground Floor next to Fenix Travel Agency
David - CHI - Panama

Parking Tickets in David, Panamá

Parking tickets - they have an interesting system here. There are women walking around downtown who sell parking cards for about $0.10. When you park, you put one of these cards under your windshield wiper. If the parking people check your car, they will mark your card. If they check your car again and if you have gone over the time on your card since they checked it first, then you get a ticket. If your card doesn't get checked and marked, you can use it again next time. I asked, what if someone steals the card you left on your windshield? I was told that people just don’t do that! You don’t need to worry.

Erratic blogging from Panama

I've been in the house without an internet connection for a week. I've been writing every day though, so my posts are going to be bunched up now as I put them up all together. You have been warned ;)

The writing has really helped me. I'm in a new city, new country, with a new language. I hardly know anyone here and I can't communicate with anyone out of the country without internet, so I felt very disconnected alone in my new house. Writing helped me feel more connected. There are many things I want to say so 'll remember my experiences, and so others who are interested can hear about them. Who knows, maybe something will help another who is following a similar path and becoming an expat.

So, I've been writing. Many posts are about what happened in a day. Some are about aspects of Panama or the city of David that I find interesting. Some are about different ways of getting things done here. Some are about things in general that are different, or surprisingly the same. I'll also include some pictures and videos now and then to help breathe more life into my story. 

It feels really good to have internet at the house and be connected with the world again! 

Catching up - cars, houses, and cash

We arrived in David, Panama a little after 9PM (after catching a bus at 2:15). It was a pleasant ride but we were tired from all the traveling. I was also tired from carting my heavy baggage around. I knew it would be weeks before anything from home would arrive, so I brought a number of books on photography and Spanish texts. That's about the only things I thought would be hard to buy here. If I had it to do over, I would have brought less books. I had a good size suitcase that weighed just under 50 pounds before I transferred 6 books from the computer bag to it, the computer bag that still had a few books in it, and the carry on had my purse and cameras. I made it but I was glad to put all the stuff down! Hopefully when I get settled and have time, I will be glad to have the books though.

My companion had plans to stay at the Bambu Hostel where we happened to stay on our first visit to David. So, since my phone was being difficult, we figured we would take a cab to Bambu and I could call my friends from there for a ride. I was looking forward to visiting Bambu anyway, and I was not disappointed. Greg, the owner, was there and it was great to see him again. They place looked wonderful, an improved version of before with more art on the walls, organized welcoming reception area, relaxing bar area out back, the bamboo “tree house” in the back yard now completed. From what I could see in the dark, the gardens were even more beautiful than they had been before.

If you want an inexpensive place to stay that is great fun, I would definitely recommend the Bambu hostel! Of course it attracts young people and backpackers, but you can find a wide variety of people there. I found it great fun to share the kitchen and common living areas because you meet people and make new friends who probably have a lot of interesting experiences to share.

http://www.bambuhostel.com/

I was able to use the phone as planned to call my friends to come get me, and how nice to be picked up and settled in my temporary home. They have a great place, a bunch of wonderful dogs, but mostly I was happy to have come to my destination so I could rest, regroup, and see what comes next.

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The next day we awoke before dawn but I slept well and felt much better.

This part of Panama has many farmers, and it is normal to get up before dawn because as soon as it is light, people must get to work. Farming is hard work modest money, so most farmers also have second jobs as well. These are not lazy people! They work very hard, and most live on a fraction of what we consider adequate in the US.

Anyway, we got up for a breakfast of fresh fruit, toast, and omelets which I was to learn is the usual breakfast in this household. The objective today is to check out the car. My friend asked his mechanic for leads on suitable cars. It seems Panama discourages people from having cars, preferring they use public transportation to keep the roads less congested, so cars are expensive here, including used cars. The mechanic couldn't find a car in my price range, but his recently retired wife wasn't using hers and agreed to sell it. The car is exactly what I wanted to find, unassuming, reliable, in my price range, and drove well. The owner was out so his assistant said he would have him call us.

This was about enough activity for my first day. The house came the next day. Eduardo Horno, a contact who I had emailed with before arriving, had two houses for me to look at. Again, I had unbelievably good luck. The first one we looked at was perfect for our needs, and also in our price range at $385/month. Another deal was made.

I now had the house and the car. Next it was a matter of getting the money together to finish the deals. This is a cash society. Big stores take credit cards. Out of country checks are difficult to get accepted anywhere. Between individuals though and in most transactions, cash is king and cash comes from the ATM. I brought some cash but not enough for everything, so now it was a matter of daily trips to the ATM to withdraw the maximum daily allowance until I had what I needed. Both of the people I was working with understood immediately and were happy to work with me. The car guy wanted to just hold the car for me with no security deposit beyond my word, and the house guy also would do the contract and hold the keys until I had the cash. These people are much more trusting than people would have been back home, requiring at least a deposit to hold something they could have sold to someone else. I was told this is also the norm. Your word is taken as good and verbal agreements are sufficient.

So, now that I had the house and the car arranged, I think I am caught up with most of the events that have taken place up until this time. It is now Wednesday Oct 17^th and things are moving forward, so I will continue this blog in its correct order as much as I can. The house deal was done yesterday. Today is the day for the car. It will be interesting to see how this day unfolds, and I'm sure I will be back to write about it soon. Hasta Pronto!

Visiting Boquette and taking the bus

What a day!! Lots of things happened today. I should be catching up on past events but it was such a good day I want to write about it right now. So, things are out of order? This is Panama. Things aren't always in order (by our USA standards) and that is OK.

It's Tuesday, 10/16/12 or as they do it here in Panama, 16/10/12. Today was the day of the market in Boquette so I decided to tag along with my friends. It turned out to be an excellent day!

First, I met the guy who manages my house. We did the contract and necessary business, and now I have keys to the house! I'm looking forward to arranging the necessities and getting settled in. Property management here is more than good. He translated the contract line by line to be sure it was all clear. He does all the communicating with the owners, and stops by the house every month to pick up the rent. He even offered to take me to where one can buy good fresh fish! He also gave me all sorts of advice on setting up utilities and necessities. I'm glad I got connected with this good man.

(the picturesque Boquette area)

The market in Boquette was also very interesting and I met and talked with a lot of people. Oh dear, can I even remember everyone I met? I connected with Chris the fish guy, Juan Linares, the Argentian chef with the delicious quiche, Lyn with the heavenly soap. Eric (www.rambalajunglelodge.com) about life in Panama, and an invitation to enjoy it at his resort. There was a lady with quilts, people with food. I can't even remember how many people I talked with... the young people with the hand made jewelry, the man with home made bread, produce people....

I was also very excited to talk with two mola sellers at the market. Molas are a very interesting native Panamanian craft. I have seen them on line, read about them, but hadn't seen them in person. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mola_(art_form) One guy has molas made by his mother and sister. He told me it takes at least a week to make just one of them. The other has molas made by his mother, and a variety of other similar items. I bought hot pads/gloves for the kitchen but I doubt I will be able to actually use them. They are far too beautiful. But, I know the man now so I suppose if I mess them up I can get some more from him. I also plan to get some authentic molas after I get more settled.

I was also happy to meet Elizabeth Whorley. I've read her book, http://comingoutincoffeeland.com/ and I've also read about her coffee farm (I bought a pound) and her quest to learn about natural healing and traditional remedies, which is becoming another successful business because of her excellent results.

http://cloudforestbotanicals.com/

Most of all though, in Boquette, I was so happy to meet my teacher! We have met on line almost daily for months, and she has worked and worked and worked with me, trying to get Spanish into my thick head. I am hardly fluent but finally I can get by and understand some of what is said to me. We have also become good friends so it was a great pleasure to finally meet in person without headsets and webcams. This, more than anything, made my day! I met her through Habla Ya. Check out this school for lessons as well as all kinds of field trips and activities. I am looking forward to getting more involved now that I am in the area. http://www.hablayapanama.com/

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My friends were finished with the market before my teacher was free, so they left me to visit the school and make my own way back home using the buses. This also turned out to be a much better experience than I expected.

My teacher directed me to the bus stop for the first leg of the journey and I boarded the old US school bus that serves as one of the buses on this route. We all know school buses aren't the height of comfort but it wasn't bad, just a bit bumpy. It wasn't totally the bus's fault though since the road is under construction. The bus became more and more crowded as it stopped for more people, but all was very orderly. Many young people boarded in front of a school but there was no rowdy behavior. All the youngsters and teenagers were very quiet, just taking whatever seats were available and riding silently as the bus proceeded on. In the US things probably would have been a bit different, and much noisier.

The bus's final stop is at the bus depot in town. You pay as you get off the bus. There is a driver, and an assistant who collects the money and does whatever else is needed to assist the passengers.

I had a bit of trouble finding the bus to San Pablo Viejo where my friends live. There are a number of buses that come through that neighborhood, and a whole lot of buses at the depot! I found the ones that go from city to city, was directed elsewhere and went too far so I was in the section for the buses to Panama City. I was directed back and found the smaller white buses that are the local buses. I asked a man for help and he called another man who took me to a correct bus and handed me off to the helper on that bus.

Again, I was very impressed. The bus filled up until there was standing room only. The helper jumped out at every stop, took bags out of hands, helped people into the bus, stowed the bags and packages at the front if people didn't have room at their seats. He helped people over puddles (very rainy day here and everything is wet), helped people up and down the steps, took the money (again, you pay as you get off), and alerted the driver when passengers wanted to get off the bus. If someone in the back needed to get off, everyone standing up got off the bus, let the passenger out, and then got back on the bus without the slightest hint of bother. Someone had baby chicks. I could hear them peeping through the whole ride. People had children. There were a number of school kids. Everyone was quiet and polite. If a woman got on and there were no seats, the nearest man immediately got out of his seat and gave it to her. I am very impressed with the bus service here and the people who use it.

Why did I buy a car??! There will be times when I'm glad to have a car, but I expect to be riding the bus frequently also. Why drive when you can relax, read, nap, or whatever you wish while someone else drives.

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That is my adventures for today. Tomorrow I pick up my car. Then I need to set up internet and other services at the house. After that it's time for some serious shopping for necessities so I can start staying at the house!

It will be interesting to see what tomorrow holds.

Panama City and the Bus to David

The 11^th of Oct was our first morning in Panama City. My companion had plans to see a dentist for a consultation. Dental care is considerably cheaper in Panama so this was one of the reasons for her trip. She was very happy with the dentist, the plans for care, and the cost was quoted as $730 for work that would have cost her over $3000 in the US. Is it any wonder that people come down here for care?

Traffic in Panama City was definitely a challenge though! It has always been busy and gets more so as the city grows. They are building a subway system so the construction sometimes interferes with traffic flow. A fire broke out in one of the largest buildings, and a day later they were still struggling with managing it. From what I heard there were plastics and other substances that could create toxic smoke so surrounding buildings were evacuated and traffic was rerouted. What a nightmare! The traffic was insane, moving at a crawl or worse in many area with impatient drivers honking and hollering and trying to get through in any way they could.

We made it to the appointment in time because thankfully we had left quite early. The dental staff was a bit late though and the dentist herself was at least 30 minutes late. Returning to the hotel was worse though. It took a while to find any available taxis and some refused to go where we wanted to go because it involved the clogged up areas of town. We finally found one and a while later, got stuck in an intersection. Cars were nose to nose in the middle of the intersection and everyone was honking! Someone tried to get around us on the right, misjudged and scraped the back right side of the taxi. So now we had a traffic jam, and upset taxi driver out of the cab yelling at another driver, and we realized we weren't going anywhere in this taxi and needed to set out to find another. I took the liberty of catching a short video of the situation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTP0TJcpvMY&feature=plcp

After a bit we found another taxi but it took quite a while to get through all the jams and make it back to the hotel. We arrived past checkout time but the staff was very understanding and told us it was no problem. I was very happy that my Spanish had improved! I could manage pretty much everything we needed to do, which is much better than our last visit. Surprisingly enough, the gal at the hotel remembered my last visit, mostly because it is remarkable for a couple to be traveling with a 92 yr old mother.

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I had thought about visiting the canal on the way to the bus depot but as late as our morning went, I thought it would be better to go directly to the bus. We caught a cab with another friendly and helpful driver who let us off at the bus depot with directions on where to find lunch, a phone store, and a bus ticket.

(a Diablo Rojo - red devil, very colorful and interesting buses that used to be old US school buses. They are phasing them out in favor of safe, modern, air conditioned comfortable buses so I was glad to see a few of these still parked at the bus depot. They sure are interesting! Some of the art on them is amazing)

The bus was pretty easy to deal with. There is a long hall like a shopping mall. You look for the sign for your destination, go to the window under the sign, and buy your ticket. Buses leave about every hour and it cost $15.25. We also bought lunch (mainly American style fast food), and I bought a cell phone ($32 for the phone and a pre-paid card, don't ask me how many minutes). Unfortunately the gal in the store looked like she was about 12, and I couldn't seem to make her understand that we need to share information a little bit at a time because if she tells me everything all at once, I understand none of it. Eventually I understood enough – at least I thought I did since I was able to make a call. But of course, as soon as I left the store that luck ran out. Every time I would answer the phone it would shut off, and if I tried to make a call it would tell me it didn't have a SIM card. Now I understand why my friend doesn't want to use cell phones here. Apparently they are much more temperamental than they are in the US. It doesn't help that the manual and menus are all in Spanish.

Anyway, we had lunch, I connected by phone with my friends long enough to tell them we were getting on the bus. We were warned that the buses are freezing, but I was very comfortable in jeans and a thick sweater (and I am cold more often than most). It was a great double decker bus, and we found that seats are assigned (after we sat in someone else's seat and had to be politely instructed). But it must have been beginners luck since our seats were almost to the front of the upper deck with a great view. Seats were comfortable, windows were large for great views, and though the trip was long it was as comfortable as a bus could make it.

(a view of the Panama Canal as the bus crossed the bridge)

The trip from Panama City to David is about 7 hours through the beautiful countryside. The first leg is about 3 ½ hours, and a movie was shown on the on board TV's. Then there was a break to stretch and eat. We were let off at a cafeteria that looked set up to feed many people quickly with tasty Panamanian style food. Then it was back on the bus for another movie, and unfortunately it was dark by now. Next time I will try and plan a day trip so I can see all the countryside because it felt like we were climbing mountains.

(The Panama countryside is beautiful!)

Shortly after break we came to a police stop. Apparently the police already had their eyes on three men that were sitting not far behind us. The police took them off the bus and though they asked everyone to get out their documents, they didn't check anyone else. Someone else on the bus said the men were removed because they didn't have documents. The police took them out beside the bus and yelled at them for a while, and then they were taken in the building and the bus was on its way. I was told later that there are many jobs here and times are much more difficult in other nearby countries, so there are many people who come here illegally to take advantage of the available work. The police are kept very busy tracking down the illegal immigrants in Panama. Who would have thought?

It felt really good to be coming in to David. We had been traveling since noon yesterday and we were pretty tired. Again, there were taxi's on hand when we needed one and a great, friendly, helpful guy to help us get our baggage and be on our way.